Secrets to creating fluffy gnocchi (+ stinging nettles! + rant!)

Before I became enamored of Spanish cooking, like so many American cooks my first "cuisine crush" was Italian. In the early 90s, when I was a vegetarian for 3 years, I felt particularly inspired to pour through the writings of Marcella Hazan and Lorenza de'Medici to glean wisdom that would help me make better risottos, pizza, fresh pasta, and - my personal favorite - gnocchi. Later, during my decade of slaving at Bay Area stoves as a professional, I gathered tips and hints from my fellow cooks and chefs. Like a forager picking mushrooms in a forest, I carefully tucked the tastiest morsels into my basket of tricks.

Although I never pursued my romantic notions to live and cook under the Tuscan sun, it seems virtually every other cook and chef in San Francisco did - so many that it seems as if our city is a colony of some new culinary Roman Empire.*

Perhaps the most successful of this cadre of Italophiles is Delfina's Craig Stoll. In part, I owe my mastery of potato gnocchi to his recipe (which you can find after the jump). The real secret to consistently turning out cloud-like gnocchi, however, I discovered on my own.

Potato gnocchi are made with 2 primary ingredients: potatoes and flour. Sometimes a third ingredient - egg - is added. Because there are so few ingredients, the quality of each cannot be overstated. First, for the potatoes, I prefer organic russet potatoes. I prefer the balance of starch and sweetness found in organic russets, but if organic are unavailable, regular russets are a great second choice.

Through following recipes and my own experimentation, I learned that I prefer the taste of gnocchi made with baked, rather than boiled, potatoes. The (for lack of a better word) potatoey flavor is more pronounced from baked potatoes, because they lose some of their water content through evaporation during the baking process. After baking the potatoes, I let them cool slightly, then I scoop out the insides and press them through a ricer and let the resulting potato cool completely.

The second ingredient is the flour. The less flour you use, the lighter your gnocchi will be. You want to use just enough to bind the potato dumplings together. Initially, I followed Marcella's recipe which consists of just potato and flour, and - occasionally - I made wonderfully fluffy gnocchi. Other times, I made rubber erasers. Then I read Craig Stoll's recipe, which called for an egg to be added. By comparing Craig's recipe with Marcella's, I noticed that using an egg allows you to reduce the amount of flour by nearly half. Craig's gnocchi were nearly perfect.

What kind of flour do you use? All the recipes call for all-purpose flour. From making fresh pasta and pizza dough, I learned that I always get better results when I use Italian all-purpose flour - labeled "00," doppio zero, meaning "double zero." This flour is lower in gluten than American all-purpose flour. The secret discovery that I am sharing with you is to use this Italian "00" flour in making gnocchi as well. With less gluten, there is little chance that you will toughen the dough through over-kneading. It is the key to consistently and reliably turning out fluffy gnocchi.

At some gourmet grocers, you can purchase Italian flour. King Arthur Flour also produces and sells on line a flour they label "Italian Style" which mimics the qualities of doppio zero flour. A more readily available substitute is pastry flour, although I have not yet tried it. Another good experiment would be to blend equal amounts of cake and all-purpose flour, or perhaps even all cake flour. I'd love to know the result if you ever try these experiments.

In addition to Craig Stoll's gnocchi recipe, I have included below my own simple alternative to the springtime sauce of green peas and sage brown butter that he proposes. One of my favorite ways to sauce gnocchi is with pesto, but I associate basil with the (theoretically**) warmer summer months. During the winter, I like making a pesto-like sauce with stinging nettles (pictured above left) sold locally by Star Route and Mariquita. This also makes a great sauce on pasta, especially penne or orecchiette (don't use orecchiette, however, if like Fatemeh, it freaks you out).

On a side note, for those of you stung by the mere mention of Valentine's Day, what better dish could there be to serve yourself than something that features stinging nettles?

Potato Gnocchi with Stinging Nettles and Pine Nuts

If you have never had - or even heard of - nettles, this simple preparation allows you to fully enjoy their unique flavor should you ever be so fortunate to find them. As you gardeners and hikers no doubt are already aware, nettles grow wild. In other words, they are a weed. Nettles have a distinct taste of the forest floor, reminiscent of wild mushrooms crossed with spinach. They are one of the most vitamin and mineral packed greens available. There is no good substitute. If you cannot find them, use a different sauce. Craig Stoll's original recipe called for sage brown butter, peas and tomatoes. This is my adaptation of his recipe, which originally appeared in the July 2001 issue of Food & Wine magazine.

Makes 4 servings

For the gnocchi:

2-3 medium baking potatoes, preferably organic (about 1½ pounds total)
1 large egg, beaten
pinch freshly grated nutmeg
½ t Kosher salt
¾ c flour, Italian "00" or pastry (see text above), plus extra for dusting

For the stinging nettles:

¾-1 pound nettles
4-5 T extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 T pine nuts, toasted
4-6 T parmigiana reggiano, freshly grated
sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 400˚F (205˚C). Prick the skins of the potatoes with a fork. Place in oven on rack and bake for a little over an hour, depending on size, until tender.

Allow the potatoes to become cool to the touch. Cut each potato in half lengthwise. Use a spoon to scoop out the flesh. Use a potato ricer and press the flesh into a bowl or Pyrex-style glass measuring pitcher. You will only need 2 cups, loosely packed, of the riced potatoes for this recipe. Save the rest for another use. Allow the potatoes to cool to room temperature.

Place the 2 cups potatoes in a bowl. Add the egg, nutmeg and salt. Use a handheld electric mixture set to low speed to just combine the ingredients. Add the flour and mix just until mixture becomes a soft dough. Do not overmix.

Dust your table or cutting board with flour. Gently knead the dough for just a minute or two, until it becomes smooth. Add flour as necessary if the dough is too sticky. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Applying gentle even pressure, roll each piece of dough into a ½-inch thick rope about 18-24 inches long. This takes some patience and you can't rush this part.

Set up a baking sheet to place the finished gnocchi. Line it with wax paper and then dust it with flour. Use a knife to cut the ropes into 1-inch pieces on a bias (diagonal). Use your thumb to press and roll each gnocchi (I wonder what the singular form of gnocchi is. Gnoccho?) against the tines of a fork. One side will end up slightly concave and the other will have a few grooves on it. You should end up with about 80 gnocchi.

Put a large pot of water on the stove to boil. Salt the water well so that you can taste the salt. While the water is coming to a boil, make your sauce.

Be careful not to touch the nettles. There is a good reason they are called "stinging nettles." Wearing latex or rubber gloves, carefully remove the larger woody stems from the nettles. Wash them in a basin of cold water and then spin dry in a salad spinner.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the nettles. Cook for a few minutes, until tender. Season with salt. Remove the nettles to a cutting board and chop coarsely.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in the same pan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook until golden, about a minute. Return the chopped nettles to the pan, stir and taste for seasoning.

When the sauce is ready, cook the gnocchi. Add the gnocchi to the water and cover the pot. When the water comes back to a boil, remove the cover. Use a large spoon to gently stir the pot once so that no gnocchi stick to the bottom. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook the gnocchi for about 1 minute, or until tender. Use a slotted spoon to lift the gnocchi into a strainer and drain.

Add the gnocchi to the pan with the nettles. Toss with pine nuts, half the cheese, ground pepper to taste and remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Place into serving bowls and serve with the rest of the cheese sprinkled on top.

________________________________
*<rant>For the purposes of this post, I have set aside my boredom and exasperation with the Bay Area (and every American) diner's continued love affair with everything Italian (and French!). While I appreciate and even adore the best local Italian trattorias - like Delfina, Incanto, Oliveto, Quince, A16, Pizzaiolo and Picco - can we not have a new restaurant that is satisfyingly rustic and sincerely product-driven without being based on the cuisine of Italy? We are swimming in a sea of new pizza and pasta restaurants. Many of them are admittedly tasty - what diner (and restaurateur) doesn't like the safety and predictability of pizzas and pastas on occasion? Who doesn't love to fantasize about living la dolce vita? But really, when is enough enough? Of course, I am aware this is entirely self-serving, because I am (still!) hoping to open a restaurant based on the cuisine of Spain. But, putting my self-interest aside, I am curious as a restaurant-goer. Am I the only one who is bored with Italian trattorias (and French bistros)? Or did I just eat too many stinging nettles with my gnocchi last night?</rant>

**I say theoretically, because in San Francisco the mercury rarely arises above the mid sixties during the summer, while yesterday we enjoyed temperatures in the mid seventies!

Food|and Drink|Recipes|Italian|Vegetarian

Comments

[pisto]

Hi,

I am very fond of my copy of Marzella Hazan's "The Essentials of Classical Italian Cooking" which I think it is a quintaessential book in the subject.

About gnocchi, one of the best culinary things that have happened in my life was a dish of gnocchi at "La Trattoria de Emilia" in Sorrento. Deep in my memory.

[vanessa]

It's good to read other people's gnocchi findings. I've been fiddling with several recipes and they've all come out wildly different. "rubber erasers" would be a euphemism for some of them. but i whole heartedly agree on the baked potato aspect. the less water involved, the better.

i have used pastry flour with good results. and i admit, that arguably the best batch came from using the last bit of flour from the white lily bag i purchased for biscuits.

my friends and i actually conducted a huge gnocchi lab in the kitchen. compared marcella's, bugialli's, and lorenza's recipes along with some personal hybrids we most prized. we actually preferred the batch made with pastry flour and without any egg for heavy rich sauces (butter sage, the ubiquitous gorgonzola), and liked something with more "chew" for the lighter tomato sauced versions.

yeah, we have no life. and really big bellies.

[Kat]

Think I'll give gnocchi makin' a shot now. Thanks for posting Craig Stoll's recipe. great pics, btw.

[Magictofu]

Since I always thought that the '00' flour referred to the degree of fineness achieved during the milling process, I was a bit puzzled reading this post. I found this web site (http://www.ochef.com/830.htm) which seems to argue exactly what I first thought. The site even goes further suggesting that ‘00’ flour is often higher in protein than all purpose flour. That being said, and if this info is right, there might be different types of '00' flour some suitable for gnocchi others for bread making. I know that the only kind of ‘00’ flour found at my local grocery store is recommended for bread making… and I assume high in protein.

[shuna fish lydon]

I would like to note, as well, that 00 flour should always be sifted, at least once, right before using.

I have always put gnocchi in the category of something just beyond me, like, let's say fish quenelles or waiting tables. But I never tire of reading about how the elusive texture is achieved.

I might have to agree with your rant. I am tired of "meditteranean" food. Well especially in our pretty little town...I would welcome a Spanish place indeed.

[mona]

Great post, and I think I'd have to agree with you. It's like...everybody's doing it why shouldn't we? (as far as the bistro/ trattoria are concerned). But I love the post on helping me with a gnocchi recipe. It's inspiring. I hope I do get to try it someday and greatly appreciate the baking/broiling tip!
Have a great weekend Brett!

[mrs D]

Ah, good rant. I'm much more partial to Spanish food as well, if I'm going to go with Southern Europe. And I'm so sick of places that claim rustic Italian, but are all just big, cheesy upscale versions of Old Spaghetti Factory (shudder).

Oh, by the way, I tagged you for a meme. (http://www.belly-timber.com/mt/archives/2006/02/eek_a_meme_part_1.html) My email's being funky so if you suddenly receive five emails with the tag a week from now, that's why.

[cookiecrumb]

Anybody else have this experience? I found that working with the riced potatoes while they were still as hot as I could handle them, I got the lightest gnocchi. Not gluey, not heavy. And I don't have a huge amount of experience with gnocchi (though I have some), but my best results were nearly finger-burning. (And as a neophyte, I was amazed and pleased.)
I also know from the simple dumb fact that I only buy all-purpose flour, that that's what worked.

[Brett]

Pisto, Marcella Hazan is a goddess! Although I do love gnocchi and think this version is quite good, I don't think I have yet had a truly trancendent potato gnocchi. Some day I'll have to go to that restaurant you mentioned.

Vanessa, wow, I want to hang out with you and your friends! I'm just that obsessive of a food geek that I would totally love to do something like make a dozen different gnocchi recipes and compare them. You bring up a good point, too, which I hadn't thought about. Different styles of gnocchi probably do pair better with different types of sauces.

Kat, get back to me and tell me how your version came out. I'd love to know.

Magictofu, according to what I've read, you are right that 00 flour is very finely ground. Marcella Hazan calls it "talcum-soft white flour." But she goes on to say it is "less strong in gluten than American all-purpose flour of either bleached or unbleached variety." She's the source for info in this post.

Shuna, good tip to sift the 00 flour. By coincidence, I did this time:-) I'm glad I'm not completely alone in my sentiments on the Bay Area dining scene. Maybe some day I will be able to get this restaurant thing off the ground.

Mona, yes, a lot of restaurants prefer to play it safe and serve whatever the critics (and public) like. It's hard to argue with that logic. Who wants to risk their life savings on something that could fail?

Mrs. D, ack! Memes make me scream! (Well, not really, but I liked the rhyme so I had to say it). I checked it out. I think you may be right that Alberto Gonzales started this meme. Will try to find the time this week.

CC, how funny! I've found just the opposite. It's OK to rice the potatoes when they're hot, but then let them cool. But if it works for you, go for it! I think what I'm learning from the comments on this post is that everyone has their own tricks that work for them. There are so many variables, such as how each person handles the dough. Maybe things that work for me might not work for everyone. I always say, whatever works for you is the always the best guideline, no matter what the recipe!

[laura @ cucina testa rossa]

bonjour brett! this looks spectacular! i love gnocchi, i love to eat gnocchi, i love everything about gnocchi but the last time i tried to make it, you could have used them for bullets. I was afraid I would take an eye out should one get lose. I followed a lidia bastianich recipe to the "t" and it was dismal. will you show me how you make them next time i'm in town? and remind me to tell you about the time i cooked with marcella hazan...

and while i see your point with all these newfangled "italian" trattorias, the best one in town (imho) is pane e vino on union, full every night for 13(14?) years. true, traditional, authentic northern italian cuisine. not fancy, just fabulous night after night after night. grazie a dio!

[B'gina]

Now this was really enlightening for me. My mom has made gnocchi ever since I can remember. I never liked them because they were heavy and doughy. That was the way she learned to do it, though. Also, she always made the spinach ones, which may add to the heaviness by affecting the proportions and adding water. I have to say that dumplings, in general, are not my thing, so I don't know if lightness would help. \;+)

[Karina]

And I am one who [brave enough or dumb enough?] tried making gluten-free gnocchi with alternative flours. What a gummy disaster. [You'd think, being primarily potato, gnocchi would translate well to gluten-free]. I'll have to try again. Someday.

Yours look lovely!

[kel @ Green Olive Tree]

wow that´s a great deal of italian kitchen wisdom. Thanks for sharing your gnocchi secrets. I myself am a fan of mediterreanean food. That was my incentive of relocating to Barcelona. I really enjoy reading your posts!!

[Fatemeh]

Gnocchi are one of those things I've always wanted to try making, but never got around to.

I will definitely take a stab at it... as for the orecchiette... ick. ;-)

[yoony]

your gnocchis look perfect brett! thanks for all the tips. i recently made my first batch of gnocchi from leftover ricotta but they are still sitting in my freezer. i'll have to try these fluffy potato ones out next time depending on whether i totally f'd up and get traumatized from the first batch. :)

[Brett]

Laura, happy to give you a gnocchi demo some day, if only to hear your Marcella stories. Also, I too am a fan of Pane e Vino, though I haven't been since they moved to their new location. They are masters of grilling fish whole.

B'gina, thanks for sharing your story!

Karina, I think you need some gluten, but maybe not. Maybe the egg is enough of a binder? There are other versions that might better translate into gluten-free, like ricotta gnocchi.

Kel, I am so envious. One of these days I just may join you and move to Barcelona!

Fatemeh, give gnocchi a stab. Just don't think of them as fat, puffed up orecchiette!

yoony, yum. I love ricotta gnocchi. I'll keep an eye on your blog to see how they turned out once you defrost and cook them.

[MM]

Wow! I sure am learning a lot here. I've only made gnocchi twice and was just so grateful that I did not mess it up! It tasted quite yummy but a little heavy as I was using a gorgonzola and walnut sauce. Not expert but I'll give this a try. Hope I don't mess it up ...

[Mark]

I tried the gnocchi recipe, and it turned out really well. Very light and fluffy!!! I, personally, would probably cut down a bit on the nutmeg next time-- but the egg:flour:potato ratio led to an incredibly delicate gnocchi. I wrote more about my results on my blog over at almostchef.com, if anyone is interested in my specifics.

[stephen]

All the links to the Stoll recipe take me to a page that tells me that I can have it if I subscribe to Food & Wine...is there any way to get it without buying something? Otherwise, great post...I've been using Marcella's recipe for years but would love to widen my scope...thanks!

[Brett]

Stephen, I'm pretty sure you don't have to pay anything to see the recipe. I think you just have to create an account, similar to the what you do if you want to read the NY Times and other newspapers and magazines on line. For some reason, the F&W site is down right now, so I can't access it to verify if this is true. God, I certainly hope I'm not paying for the F&W site. I rarely use it.

[Brett]

Stephen is indeed right. F&W have now made the recipe accessible only to their magazine subscribers. I have edited my post to add my adaptation of Craig Stoll's recipe.

[Rosemarie]

Does anyone have a potato gnocchi recipe that is gluten free? What type of substitute flour(s) do you use with success?